Wessex Ridgeway Day 5: Laverstock Farm to Rhode Barton

Length: 26 km

Duration: 9:55

Total ascent/descent: 896/-841 m

Max/min slope: 18%/-12%

Wayfinding: easy to medium, map is still essential

Weather: mostly sunny with some clouds, overcast evening, shorts

Dinner: takeaway delivered to campsite, details from Lovelymeregis

Overnight: Berries Farm Camping

A long and hard day, with multiple climbs.

From Laverstock Farm, we walked back north to rejoin the Ridgeway via a bridleway and saw many WR way marks, suggesting the current WR route had changed and was different from OS maps. This could also explain the weirdness we saw near Up Cerne.

Corn field on Laverstock Farm

Sheepwash Lane

A name that should have a story behind it.

It was behind gates that were tied, presumably because Courtwood Farm, whose land the lane was on, had forgotten to untie it after funnelling cattle through it. We jumped the second gate to get into the lane.

It was overgrown. The first section was like a tractor lane, before narrowing to footpath width. Then it widened into two-tractor width, which made the whole path like a meadow, before narrowing again.

As overgrown as it was, there were not many brambles or nettle, which was good. Abundant wild flowers, including a white policeman’s-hat that I hadn’t seen before.

After leaving the lane, the path eventually went straight into the backyard of the farmhouse on Lower Newnham Farm.

Sheepwash Lane section 1
Sheepwash Lane section 2
Sheepwash Lane section 3
Out of the lane

Pilsdon Pen Fort

National Trust managed. The landscape is defined by bracken. The paths are between bracken. It was a prehistoric fort and another high point in the area, along with the Lewesdon Hill. Together they were known as Cow and Calf, to navigating sailors. Good views all round.

Gorse and heather were in bloom.

Very new calf
Lewesdon Hill from Cockpit Hill
Lewesdon Hill from Pilsdon Pen fort
Pilsden Pen fort ground cover blooming
Pretty and easy stile with the inscription: HUMBLE CARES AND DELICATE FEARS WORDSWORTH

Blackdown Hill

Long ridge, overlooking Blackdown the village. We didn’t walk the whole length to avoid the road walking at the end of it.

Lewesdon Hill and Pilsdon Pen from The Triangle, Blackdown
Ridge on Blackdown Hill
Blackdown village from Blackdown Hill

Saddle Street, Grighay Farm

Saddle Street, nondescript, a bit run down.

Grighay Farm, confusing/misleading homemade sign that made the public path seem private. This made us go through the farm rather than the more attractive village buildings.

Thorncombe from above Saddle Street
Farmhouse in Grighay Farm

Lambert’s Castle

Steep climb to the Lambert’s Castle fort. If you get tempted by a more direct path off the official one, don’t follow it.

Panoramic views, south to the coast and north back to Lewesdon Hill.

Ascending Lambert’s Castle fort
Scrambling a shortcut up to Lambert’s Castle: not recommended
Lambert’s Castle
South coast from Lambert’s Castle
The Golden Cap?
Lewesdon Hill from Lambert’s Castle
Lewesdon Hill and Pilsdon Pen, Cow and Calf, from Lambert’s Castle
Crazy road junction at the foot of Lambert’s Castle

Coney’s Castle

This fort was an unexpected delight. The footpath on it was a forested oasis of beech and oak.

Coney’s Castle forest
Mushroom in tree trunk

Wootton Fitzpaine

Knapp Farm had an honesty shop called the Shed Shop. We ran out of water and thankfully could buy a bottle of apple juice. They also had hoggets in a freezer. Card or cash.

Between WF and Penn, there were some fields that were clearly managed without being farmed in any way. They were covered in soft, medium length grass. There were many old trees dotted through. It was so different from other fields that it felt otherworldly.

Glimpse of Lyme Regis
Wootton Hill
‘The Shed Store’, Knapp Farm, Wootten Fitzpaine. Apple juice, eggs, jam and hoggets for sale.
Great oak tree in a group of beautiful fields between Wootton Fitzpaine and Penn.

Hole Common

Huge woodlands, pretty overgrown and a bit wild. The southern part seemed to have been grown for logging. Very nice walk even in our exhaustion and race against sunset.

We arrived at the campsite rather late. But being close to a big fashionable town had its perks: we were able to get some takeaway delivered! Hunger averted, we rested our feet in physical contentment at least. Psychologically, I was ready for a feathered mattress rather than a squeaky air one.

Whitty Hill from Berries Farm campsite